Recycling by SaXcell & Sasia
📍 Enschede, The Netherlands & Ribeirão, Portugal
Sasia and SaXcell are pioneering textile innovators advancing circularity through fiber-to-fiber recycling technologies. Sasia specializes in sorting and pre-processing post-consumer textile waste, providing high-quality feedstock for fiber regeneration. SaXcell (short for Saxion Cellulose) focuses on transforming cellulose-rich textile waste into regenerated fibers through a patented chemical recycling process. Together, they contribute to closing the loop in the textile industry by turning discarded garments into valuable new raw materials for sustainable production.
Interview with Ger Brinks & Miguel Sarmento
What was your responsibility in this project?
G.B: SaXcell provided the SaXcell L30 fibre, an MMCF made of waste cotton and wood, and was part of the discussions on material properties and finishing.
M.S: Sasia is specialized in pre-consumer textile recycling. Within the Circular Garment project, we supplied 100% recycled cotton fiber (pre-consumer), sourced from industrial textile waste. Our role was to provide high-quality recycled raw material, contributing to the traceability and sustainability of the final garment.
What is your vision for circular textiles in Europe?
G.B: Important developments for a more sustainable textile industry are linked to the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs), which serve as an international benchmark for responsible business conduct. This mainly concerns high CO2 emissions, intensive use of resources, land and water, and social problems in the supply chain. The European Union in particular is imposing far-reaching sustainability requirements on the textile industry. More than a dozen initiatives that are relevant to the textile and clothing industry are currently being discussed at EU level alone. Key measures include the EU’s Green Deal Strategy for Textiles, which also provides for Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) from 2025. There is also the new EU Ecodesign Regulation, including the Digital Product Passport, which will be implemented from 2025. This means that roles within companies will change – and new job profiles will emerge in sustainability management, material development, change management and circular design. All this is extremely important and will help the industry to implement sustainable solutions. As always (see history on major changes) without governmental/ legislative support changes will not happen or go very slow.
M.S: We envision a Europe where textile waste becomes a strategic resource instead of a problem. Our goal is a circular, local, and collaborative value chain, where both pre- and post-consumer recycling are integrated into production processes, with full traceability and reduced environmental impact.
What would make these circular practices easier for you to adopt?
G.B: Rules help a lot. But then rules must apply to all suppliers within the EU market without sneaking in through web based shops like Temu, Shein and the like.
M.S: Clearer and harmonized legislation at the European level defining what qualifies as "recycled" and "circular" would be very helpful. In addition, incentives for the use of recycled materials, support for digital traceability, and dedicated funding for innovation in recycling would make circular practices more accessible and scalable.
What advice would you give to other entities that want to replicate the value circle?
G.B: If one wants to start in this business, make sure you have a long breath. Take care of financial reserves since the textile industry is extremely volatile, surround yourself with partners active in the supply chain (like in RegioGreenTex). Invest heavily in marketing, but since the textile industry is messy, try to avoid to grow too fast, and rigidly safeguard the quality of your material. Build partnerships.
M.S: Start by building strong local partnerships with aligned goals. Circularity only works when all actors collaborate—designers, manufacturers, collectors, and recyclers. Be ready to test, learn, and above all, ensure material traceability throughout the process.
What was your drive to be a part of this initiative?
G.B: We wanted to show to the world that SaXcell can be applied in high quality textile products, and to show how it can be used in all steps in the supply chain.
M.S: We joined because we believe pre-consumer recycling plays a key role in building a more sustainable textile industry. This project allowed us to demonstrate the value of our recycled materials, take part in a real circular value chain, and work with committed partners driving the green transition.
Looking back, how did it go for you?
G.B: As far as I can tell, it went well.
M.S: Very positively. The project proved that it's possible to produce a circular garment, using recycled and traceable materials, within a European ecosystem. The commitment and collaboration of all partners were key, and we believe this is a model that can and should be scaled up.
Discover other interviews