R&D by Citeve & RISE
📍 Famalicão, Portugal & Mölndal, Sweden
RISE (Research Institutes of Sweden) and CITEVE (Technological Centre for the Textile and Clothing Industries of Portugal) are leading European research institutions driving innovation in textiles and sustainability. RISE brings expertise in materials science, circular economy, and industrial transformation, acting as a bridge between research and applied solutions. CITEVE offers deep sectoral knowledge of textile technologies, product development, and sustainability assessment, with strong industry connections across Southern Europe. Together, they provide cutting-edge research, testing, and guidance to advance sustainable practices and circular models in the textile value circle.
Interview with Stina Björquist & Catarine Guise
What was your responsibility in this project?
S.B: RISE is an independent, state-owned research institute working to strengthen competitiveness and promote sustainable development. We collaborate with companies to scale up innovations. In the Circular Garment initiative, I was involved in developing rotor-spun yarn prototypes in our labs. These, alongside ring-spun yarns from Citeve, formed the basis for discussions with partners on the optimal fiber blends and yarn thickness. We also tested yarn strength and had ongoing dialogues with SMEs about how the yarn would perform in carding, spinning, and knitting. Additionally, I was involved in planning the garment production process, where rigorous timing and coordination were required to ensure everything happened at the SMEs at the right time.
C.G: CITEVE was involved in defining the value chain for the production of the Circular Textile Garment. It participated in the initial laboratory-scale trials to evaluate the performance of the raw materials during the spinning process, using ring-spinning technology.
What is your vision for circular textiles within Europe?
S.B: I hope to see Europe leading the way in sustainable textiles — from consumers to producers. My vision includes better consumer knowledge so people understand the impact of their choices. Circularity starts with demand for recycled materials, but today, that demand is still very low, which limits the full potential of the value circle. Virgin materials are still valued more highly — and sold cheaply — when it should be the recycled materials that carry greater value.
C.G: CITEVE plays a strategic role in promoting textile circularity at the European level. It participates in various national and European projects focused on eco-design, reuse, and recycling, supporting the shift to a circular model. It is also active in creating recycling ecosystems and valorizing textile waste, as seen in the RegioGreenTex project. Additionally, CITEVE runs awareness campaigns targeting consumers and invests in traceability and transparency methods, including a tool for the Digital Product Passport, enhancing trust in the value chain and meeting market and European regulatory demands.
What would make these circular practices easier for you to adopt?
S.B: The upcoming Digital Product Passport will be a valuable step forward, increasing transparency around the production and impact of textiles. There is also a need for more standards relating to circular materials. As a research institute, we are accustomed to assessing materials using international standards, which ensures high reliability, as these are practices adopted by multiple institutions. However, we see a clear need to develop new standards specifically for assessing and comparing circular materials.
C.G: The adoption of circular practices can be boosted by combined regulatory, financial, and structural support. Clearer, harmonized EU regulations, such as recycled content rules, extended producer responsibility, eco-design standards, and digital product passports, would help adopt sustainable and circular practices. Fiscal incentives like tax breaks and subsidies can offset initial costs, while easier access to public funding helps smaller companies transition. Financing infrastructure like collection, sorting, and recycling facilities is also key. Lastly, promoting public-private partnerships and regional collaboration can accelerate the shift to circularity.
What advice would you give to other entities that want to replicate the value circle?
S.B: Communication and openness to collaboration are key to success. Build trust within your network — we had an advantage in that regard, as we were already collaborating widely within the RegioGreenTex project.
C.G: Just start! To replicate the value circle, focus on building strong collaborations across the entire value chain and invest in training and knowledge sharing. Begin with small pilot projects to learn and adapt, then scale up gradually. Use available funding and support programs and prioritize transparency to build trust with consumers and stakeholders.
What was your drive to be a part of this initiative?
S.B: Being part of this initiative has been important for learning from one another. As a research institute, we are skilled at diving deep into details, but this project also connected different production sites and innovations across European regions. It was an enriching and, of course, fun experience.
C.G: CITEVE is a technological center with a public mission to support the national textile industry, so all challenges related to this industry are welcome, due to its commitment to promoting innovation and sustainability in the sector. When this challenge was launched within the framework of the RegioGreenTex project, CITEVE supported its practical implementation from the very beginning, in line with the principles the organization believes in, namely the transition from a linear to a circular economy, reducing environmental impact and promoting the valorization of textile waste.
Looking back, how did it go for you?
S.B: Despite a tight timeline, we managed to create a set of garments in just eight months that demonstrate the value of interregional collaboration. The initiative has brought companies and regions together around a shared purpose.
C.G: It was a challenging journey, as scaling from a laboratory setting to an industrial environment involves a completely different level of complexity. The transition required adapting processes, validating technical parameters at scale, and ensuring consistency in quality and performance. However, the involvement of partners who were already familiar with the challenges eased both communication and practical implementation. This experience highlighted the importance of strong partnerships and demonstrated that advancing circular textile solutions is feasible when supported by aligned and committed stakeholders.
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